Jancis Robinson Austria’s single – vineyard releases in 2023 – Wachau

Austria’s single – vineyard releases in 2023 – Wachau

“…Among the wines I tasted I would highlight Gritsch Mauritiushof’s full-bodied but elegant Kalkofen Riesling…”  (09.Oct.23, Julia Harding MW & Paula Sidore)

Kalkofen Riesling Smaragd 2022 Wachau – 17 Points
At first more restrained than some of the more open Rieslings in this vintage, but with air there’s a lovely hint of just-ripe apricots and ripe pear. One of the
few full-bodied Smaragd 2022s in this line-up but pulled in for elegance on the crisp finish. (JH)

1000-Eimerberg Riesling Smaragd 2022 Wachau – 17,5 Points
Smells like peach tart and lemon curd. Zesty and focused with a mouthwatering sour-fresh appeal. Thrilling contours with tangy notes of pink grapefruit and sorrel. Chalky finesse on the long finish. Loads of stony power swathed in a refined and noble fruitiness. (PS)

Singerriedel Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2022 Wachau – 17++ Points
Enchanting aromas of yellow fruit, meadow flowers and kumquat. Lavish and complex, while still dizzyingly fresh. Spice and depth. The best of old-school Wachau power with modern, tailored precision. Give this one a few years yet. (PS)

Hochrain Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2022 Wachau – 16,5 Points
Ripe pear fruit, open and aromatic as the wine warms in the glass. An intensely creamy note (lees effect?). Highly textured on the palate too, both creamy and with the grain of fresh pairs. A big, creamy, rounded wine, powerful and deep, with balancing freshness. But more power than elegance. (JH)

Klaus Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2022 Wachau – 16,5 Points
Ripe, rich spicy lemon with a hint of apricot as it opens in the glass. Broad and intensely spicy on the palate, almost overpowering the citrus fruit, with a creamy/mealy flavour and texture on the finish. Chewy and powerful, the spice being the main component in the freshness. An unusually big wine in this vintage. (JH)

Loibenberg Riesling Smaragd 2022 Wachau – 16,5 Points
Aroma is powerful, open and a touch spicy. One of the ripest-fruited in this line-up of 2022 Rieslings so far with both lemon and apricot. Bright, vibrant and a very fruity style yet with persistent freshness. (JH)